Membership Drive for 2008
Giving away EZ ID to member that refers the most newbies
Tell them who referred you!!!

(928) 445-3423   NDGA Membership Form
Mail To: 8370 W. Abbey Lane, Wilhoit, AZ 86332

With membership you get a Fabulous Calendar (The calendar shows due date based on date bred)
Quarterly NDGA Publication stuffed full of Information (which you are invited to contribute to).

Housing:  Provide draft free housing for your goat with bedding that is clean and dry. I prefer shavings over straw, as it is more absorbent, and I believe it to be more comfortable for them to lay on. Make sure that any enclosed space is kept clean and free of strong urine odor. Fresh air is necessary even in the cold of winter. During those long, cold winter months you can also provide a heat lamp or a goat coat on the nights that are below freezing, but I believe they stay plenty warm with their thick winter coats, and a draft free, dry house.

Fencing: I've found, through years of trial and error, that cattle panels are the best fencing to use for goats.  Easy to install    using steel fence posts.  Sturdy and strong enough to withstand your goats jumping up on it. You can buy gates made from the same material as well, or use a chain link gate or devise one of your own. You might want to get the combination bottom style    if you are housing young goats that can escape through the bottom panels. You can easily attach screen or wire to the bottom temporarily for those small escape artists.  Once they  are about 6 months old even most miniatures are too big to fit through the regular cattle panels.

Feeders:  I've found that it is difficult to keep goats from wasting hay. Any feeder you have chosen, hay bag, hay rack, milk crate,  feed pan or whatever you might use, goats will eat what they pull out of the feeder in their mouth, let the rest fall to the ground where it is Now Bedding or garbage! If you are raking up a substantial amount of wasted hay daily or weekly, you might want to use a feeder to help eliminate large amounts of hay withdrawal.

Supplements:  Loose Minerals should be available to your goats at all times. Provide a feeder in a dry location. I always add baking soda to my loose minerals.  Goats that are not accustomed to it may be slow to eat it, but they will come around. My goats eat it like candy.  There is a special buck mineral available.  However, I choose to feed all in my herd  the same mineral, but I add ammonium chloride to my buck minerals as it is a preventative for the urinary calculi.

Selenium deficiency:  Selenium is a trace mineral present in the soil in varying amounts around the world. Symptoms are similar to those of Vitamin E deficiency. White Muscle Disease, also known as Nutritional Muscular Dystrophy, is a condition in which kids are too weak to stand or suckle at birth, they consistently cough, milk sometimes runs out of their nose after nursing, and they develop pneumonia because of muscle weakness in their lungs.  In adults, abortions, stillbirths, retained placenta or inability to conceive may result from selenium deficiency.  Selenium is routinely added to processed grain by feed mills, but the amount permitted by U.S., law may be insufficient for some areas. Therefore, many producers obtain a veterinary prescription for either injectable or oral supplements.

**Selenium has a very narrow margin of safety. Goats require 0.2 parts per million of selenium, and the toxic level is 3 ppm. Some symptoms of selenium deficiency are identical to those of selenium toxicity. A doe's failure to conceive can be the result of either selenium deficiency or toxicity. Kidney failure, stillbirth and abortions also may be attributable to either end of this spectrum. By contrast, hair loss in the beard and flank regions and cracks and deformities in horns and hooves may reveal an over-abundance of selenium in the goat's diet.

Iodine Deficiency:  Very common in grazing stock and goats are particularly susceptible. Iodine is related to the functioning of the thyroid gland. The thyroid gland manufactures thyroxine. Thyroxine (which contains iodine) is involved in a large number of functions related to the health and production of the animal before and after birth.
The fetus has an active thyroid from mid term onwards. Thyroid hormones are required for the normal development of the fetus. Thyroxine does not pass from mother to fetus. The fetus has to make its own. The iodine status of the doe during gestation is therefore very important. (Iodine does pass from doe to fetus across the placenta.)

It is evident, therefore, that thyroid hormones are very much involved in the normal growth and development of the fetus and thyroid gland deficiencies can result in a higher proportion of weak or still born kids being born than would otherwise be the case. Thyroid gland hormones can also have affects on body chemistry and functional affects such as metabolism of fats and carbohydrates and stimulation of the body warming mechanisms in cold snaps.

Prevention Supplementing with iodine can be accomplished by feeding out as a supplement in troughs, by feeding out a proprietary salt block containing iodine, by drenching a solution of potassium iodide (20g to 1 liter of water) and dosing all animals with this solution at the rate of 10 mls per 20 kg of body weight. Drenching should take place 4 weeks before mating, 6 to 8 weeks before kidding and 2 weeks before kidding. The last option is considered by many to be the best strategy as it gives the iodine at times when it is required and ensures that all animals get it.

Copper deficiency: can be the result of low levels of the mineral in the soil and in forages raised on the soil; this is primary copper deficiency. However, both the feed and the soil can have adequate copper but its absorption can be interfered with by minerals known as copper antagonists: lead, iron, manganese, various sulfates, cadmium, and molybdenum. This is secondary copper deficiency.

Congenital copper deficiency is the term used to describe the kid who did not receive sufficient copper in utero. Often born swaybacked, the kid stands unsteadily or cannot stand, displays muscle tremors and head shaking, and may grind its teeth. The kid can see, hear, and sometimes can nurse, but he has low blood sugar (hypoglycemia) and sub-normal body temperature (hypothermic). Bone abnormalities are common, particularly in the long (leg and back) bones of the body. Complete recovery from congenital copper deficiency does not often happen because problems that occurred during fetal development may not be correctable. With intensive nursing, swaybacked kids may survive for days or weeks, but they usually do not live long.

Copper is essential in the proper development of the central nervous system, correct bone growth, and hair pigmentation. Copper-deficient goats have difficulty conceiving kids and, if bred, abortions are not uncommon.

Kids who appear to be fine at birth but develop symptoms at around three months of age are said to have the delayed form of copper deficiency. Evidence of atrophied muscles appear, tremors and incoordination occur, and leg weakness is displayed. Usually the problem appears in the rear legs first, but not always. Kids with front-leg weakness will spent lots of time on their front knees. Kids with rear-leg weakness will pull themselves around by their front legs. Death occurs from secondary problems, like pneumonia. This delayed evidence of the results of copper deficiency can be confusing, diagnosis-wise, because it is sometimes accompanied by the neurological form of Caprine Arthritic Encephalitis (CAE), listeriosis, or even muscular dystrophy. Secondary copper deficiency tends to be more responsive to treatment than primary copper deficiency.

Insufficient weight gain, poor appetite, and weight loss are seen in copper-deficient goats of growing age. Adults display more subtle signs of copper deficiency. They are generally unthrifty, anemic poor milk producers, and sometimes have diarrhea. But the most visible sign of copper deficiency in adults is loss of hair color. Copper is essential for melanin production that causes hair pigmentation. Hair discoloration occurs when copper-containing enzyme is missing.

Other symptoms which may indicate copper deficiency are white or In circles around the eyes; retained placenta; difficulty in conceiving kids (sometimes indicated by continual estrus cycles . .  "short cycling" and coming into heat frequently but not becoming pregnant); delayed shedding of hair coat; extreme hair loss; lowered libido in males (lack of crest in breeding); slight hoof deformities; bent legs in yearlings; pink- and other immune-deficiency problems such as frequent bouts with pneumonia, mange or fungus-type lesions, and lice infestation. Copper deficiency may play a role in Floppy Kid Syndrome if the dams were cop- deficient, leaving the kids with only enough stored copper for a week ten days after being born. 

Control of proper copper levels in goats is critical. Goats metabolize and store copper much differently from sheep.  Do NOT use products labeled "for sheep & goats" because they are woefully insufficient in the amount of copper needed by goats. Copper can be given to pregnant does and newborns sub-cutaneously (SQ) in the form of copper glycinate or orally in the does' drinking water via copper sulfate. Severely copper-deficient goats are sometimes given copper boluses which attach to the inside of the body and slowly deliver copper at a predetermined rate. It is possible to induce copper toxicity in goats. Copper accumulates in the liver. Red/brown urine may be a sign of copper poisoning. Using calf milk replacers has caused copper poisoning in kid goats.

Bloat:   You should always have Bloat Release or Therabloat on hand as well as Probios, which replaces good bacteria needed to help the rumen function properly.  These items are very reasonably priced, and if you have need of the product, it can easily save your goats life and save you a hefty vet bill.   If an animal tends toward bloat, feed the most course hay you can find as the softer grassy hay seems  to aggravate this condition almost as much as grazing on fresh grass.  Vegetable oil can also be used as a preventative or treatment if bloat occurs although the Therabloat or bloat  release is the better remedy. What I found is that tubing to release air is very tricky and doesn't always work, as the object is to get the tube far enough into the stomach to release the air. What worked for my animal was to use a 16 gauge needle through the outer wall into the rumen.  You can see where the rumen is located, as it is usually always the most distended area when the animal is bloated, high up on the left side of the stomach.  Clip a small area of hair, use   alcohol to clean the skin very well, so that you don't carry anything through with the needle.  Poke the needle all the way through, and you should be able to hear the air releasing, as if from a balloon.  Massage the stomach to help the air free itself, and when the animal has been relieved, and you can see that the stomach is once again flat, remove the needle.  I have always given (1 cc) of penicillin in the muscle for 3 consecutive days after this procedure to fight off any bacteria that might  have been introduced. You do not want your animal to get peritonitis. There are no surefire answers, and I am certainly not a vet, only experienced through necessity in dealing with  this problem.  I have only had one animal that has ever suffered from this condition.

Coccidiosis:  A contagious one celled organism which can cause severe diarrhea and weight loss, especially in young animals.     It is generally transmitted through fecal matter in the soil from infected animals. It is very important to eradicate quickly so   that it does not spread from one animal to the next. Use sulfa and amprolium. Corid  works well, but with all, be sure to use the correct dosage of medication.

Urinary Calculi:  Stone or stones blocking the urinary tract, most often occurs in wethers.  Caused by an improper ratio of calcium to phosphorus in the diet. Urinating becomes very painful, if not impossible. If you see them straining, crying,  laying down, not eating and not acting as you are accustomed this might be why. Ammonium chloride added to free choice trace minerals is a good preventative and definitely worth your time    & expense.  The additional salt/minerals consumed will result in the buck drinking more water, therefore washing out his system. Always have plenty of fresh, clean water available.  Especially in the warmer summer months, make sure to refill water buckets every day, as stale warm water is not as quickly consumed as fresh, cold water.  Corn contains high amounts of phosphorus, thus is not good for bucks.  Sweetened Grain is a contributor to this factor in males, and should be avoided.  There are other  options for treats, such as animal crackers, grapes & raisins, and these won't kill your animal. 

Ketosis:  Not contagious.  This is pregnancy toxemia attributed  to low blood sugar.  Most often seen in late pregnancy, and first weeks of lactation.  Doe will be lethargic and go off feed.  You  can test with a ketocheck test (Farm & Fleet carries them).   Treat with propylene glycol.  You can use this as a preventative as well, during late pregnancy & first few weeks of lactation.

Home remedy for Ketosis:

White or brown sugar, corn syrup, molasses or honey (few ounces a day).

Yearly Vaccinations Necessary:  c/d Tetanus - Dosage is 2 cc's. First year it must be given twice.  Booster 21 days after initial vaccination.   Bo-se (selenium & Vitamin E) - most areas are deficient in this trace mineral.  Dosage is 2.5 ml per 100 lbs.  Use a weigh tape for adult animals, and use a scale (bathroom scale will work), for younger kids as the tape isn't precise  enough at lower weights.

I give Pregnant Does their Annual c/d Tetanus & Bo-Se shot 1 month before their approximate delivery date.   If the doe is given these vaccinations at least 3 weeks before delivery, the  kid is covered by this vaccination until they are about 8 weeks old.  I would still give 1 cc of c/d Tetanus at disbudding to be safe.

Always keep epinephrine with you any time you are giving shots to your animals.  You never know what might cause anaphylactic shock, and you must be prepared.  Epinephrine is to be given I.M. at first sign of anaphylactic shock  (1/2 to 1 cc).

Kid Vaccinations:

If Doe was vaccinated at least 3 weeks prior to delivery: 

c/d tetanus:  2 cc's at disbudding,  2 cc's at 8 weeks, and another 2 cc's 21 days after that.  This completes the yearly vaccinations required for this kid.

If Doe was not vaccinated prior to delivery of kids:

Bo-Se:  1/10th cc at birth.   c/d tetanus:  2 cc's at disbudding, 2 cc's at 8 weeks old, and 2 cc's again 21 days later.

Where to vaccinate:   We all know that the c/d tetanus shot, which is to be given sub Q (under the skin), leaves a bump      that lasts quite a while.  Because of this, many people have started giving this shot I.M. (in the muscle).  This is not the correct way to give this shot.  Giving in the muscle distributes  the medication too quickly and doesn't give the proper  protection for this vaccination.  You must give the c/d tetanus shot sub Q for it to be an effective vaccination.

c/d Tetanus:  For those of us that show, and do not want a noticeable lump on our goats neck, you can give this shot along the rib cage behind the front leg, Sub Q. 

Bo-Se:  This shot is to be given I.M. You can choose the muscle   in the back of the rear leg, but be careful as there are many nerves running down through the rear leg.  You may choose to give this shot in the muscle behind the front shoulder bone. This muscle covers the front of the ribcage along the side of the animals body.

Calcium Requirements:  Pregnant does and does in milk require plenty of calcium so that they do not begin leaching calcium   from their own bones to replace what they are producing in milk for the kids needs.  You may want to provide a calcium drench, but be careful to use the proper dosage.

Doe in Milk:  Keep a close watch on your does condition, and if it begins to deteriorate, take action.  You might want to increase grain or feed a better quality hay/alfalfa.  Protein requirements are high during production of milk, especially for the feeding of multiple kids.  Feed your doe appropriately.  If you see her condition deteriorating, increase feed ration.

Penicillin:  Must be refrigerated. To give a penicillin shot.  This is a shot to be given I.M.  When given, you must draw back on  the syringe to be sure you do not see blood before giving this shot.  If you see blood, it means you have hit a vein, and if you give this shot directly into a vein, you will KILL the animal.  Also, always have epinephrine (1/2 to 1 cc - to be given I.M.) on hand when giving this shot, as it is higher risk for anaphylactic shock reaction. 

Epinephrine:  Must be refrigerated.  If ever you need it, you will need it immediately.  You will not have time to run to the refrigerator to get it.  (1/2 to 1 cc - to be given I.M.) This shot is given to save an animal having a negative reaction to any vaccine.

Grain provides a lot of protein in a small amount of feed and because of this, should be fed with great care. Feeding grain to a whether, for instance, can lead to urinary tract blockage.

During Gestation: (5 months) Grain is a very necessary supplement to the pregnant does regular diet, as is Alfalfa which provides much needed Calcium.  As a doe becomes larger in the last month of gestation, the stomach is restricted and she cannot eat as much, so you must make sure that what she is eating is high enough in protein to fill the requirements for her and her unborn kids.  If not, you risk Hypocalcemia and ketosis. A pregnant doe should get plenty of exercise and fresh air, and stay in premium condition for kidding.

Long range consequences of nutritional imbalance:  You effect the condition of the fetus as well as the kid (after birth), if you have not fed the doe appropriately during gestation.  The long range effects last beyond birth, and can cause a kid that was malnourished during gestation to have problems that could have been avoided.  I learned this lesson the hard way, purchasing a doe that was pregnant.  The doe was extremely undernourished when she came, 2 weeks prior to kidding.  She was not able to provide milk for her kids and one of her kids died before birth.  Another kid that I received from the same breeder as a 9 week old, was never right, and her legs began to bow at 20 days of ownership.  I had started supplements and the best feed upon her arrival, as she was so thin and tiny, but it did little good, as the damage had already been done.  This doe went on to have multiple problems, which eventually lead to her be euthanized at 9 months of age.  Very, very sad, and could have been avoided.

Water:  Clean, fresh water must be available always, as goats will go off feed without it, and will choose not to drink out of a dirty water bucket.  Use an electric bucket in the winter as goats will drink water that is a little warmer in the winter, and they cannot break through even the thinnest of an ice coating and will go without if it freezes over.

Basic care:  Keep hooves trimmed as overgrown hooves can cause leg and feet problems. Trimming should be done approximately every 6-8 weeks, but younger kids hooves tend   to grow a bit quicker, so keep an eye on them. Check coat and skin occasionally for mites, fleas or ring worm or any other nasty feeding creatures. If you see any bald spots always check it out as it can be caused by any one of these problems.  Check your goats ears occasionally for ear mites. Head shaking can be a clue.  In the winter/spring it's not uncommon to have to  dust your goats for mites. 

Worm control:  In an effort to avoid immunity to wormers it is very important that you worm only when necessary.  You can quickly find out if your goats carry any worm load by having a fecal done.  The vet or yourself can collect fecal matter from the goat and you or your vet can do a worm count. You will also want to check for coccidiosis. Worms & coccidiosis are invisible killers and can take a goat down quickly.  Many people check    the gums of the animal for paleness, which indicates worminess in goats, but to be sure of what type of worm you need to treat for, a fecal is your best indicator.  There are wormers on the market to treat for different types of worms.  You can find this information in any of a number of different catalogs that sell these products.

There is a new system designed to control the parasite Haemonchus Contortus in sheep & goats. This parasite is one of the most problematic among small ruminants.  The parasite sucks large amounts of blood from the true stomach of the animal, and the result is a severely anemic animal.  This new system, called Famacha, involves checking the under eyelid of the animal for color.  You want to see a healthy pink/red coloring to the eyelid and eye tissue.  If you see pale or white, you are looking at an animal that is definitely carrying a load of these worms, and you would want to treat that animal. 

Beware of wormers that are not safe for pregnant animals.  If they are labeled as such, follow instruction.  Do not worm a pregnant animal with such a product, as you seriously risk losing the kids.

I believe it is important to worm a pregnant doe about 1 month before delivery, with a wormer labeled safe for pregnant  animals. It is a time when she is more susceptible to any risk of worms and the possibility of transmitting them to the kids.

Dehorning or Disbudding:  This is a procedure that many people abhor and cannot bring themselves to perform. The option is to take your animal to the vet or find someone locally that can perform this procedure for you. I do my own disbudding, as it can get costly being that it may have to be done more than   once, especially on young bucks, and sometimes for persistent growth in does as well.  Keep in mind that you may need to   touch up horns if you see growth, but it is well worth the effort,  as animals with horns cannot be taken into a show ring.  You can read about dehorning in the Hoegger or Caprine goat supply catalogs, and they give a pretty good description of the task.

Tattooing:  This is another, not very pleasant task, that many would rather not have to perform. Some have opted to   microchip instead.  The problem with that can be a floating      chip that can't be located, and having no identification for that animal. It's still a good idea to tattoo for backup identification. But I have found that even the tattoo's can fade away and   cannot be read.  At this point in time  ADGA does not accept  micro chipping as the only means of identification. Tattooing    can be tricky. You will probably want to have the guidance of someone that has done it before. You must be very careful to place the tattoo correctly, in the correct ear and such.  You       will want to have a piece of paper to test the tattoo letters on before you actually tattoo the animal's ear.  Make sure that      you can read an ear tattoo before taking an animal into the    show ring, as the judge must be able to identify that animal by the tattoo in case of a win.  In my experience tattoos don't      stay for long, especially in dark ears, and many times must be done again. This can be very frustrating and worrisome, as you do not want a tattoo to become unreadable. I've found that  green ink works the best, especially in the dark ears.  You can read about the procedure for tattooing in the above mentioned catalogs.  You would do well to order each of these catalogs.  Hoegger (800) 221-4628  / Caprine (800) 646-7736. 

Ringworm:  Fungus - Very contagious.  Hair loss and scaling.  Transmitted through direct contact, even to humans. Treat with antifungal creme applied directly to area.  May need treatment a few times a day until gone.  You can use antifungal foot creme purchased from Walmart, as well as the higher priced products for treating fungus.  This can be transferred to your animal through soil that emits a spore.

Soremouth:  Virus - Very contagious.  Scabs or open sores on  lips, face, ears and sometimes udders.  Contagious to humans,  so use care during treatment. Treat with ointments or cremes to help soothe pain.  You can choose to isolate effected animals and let it run it's course, generally 2-4 weeks.  You may choose to vaccinate your animals for this. 

Tube feeding a weak/failing kid:  If you are at risk of losing a kid that is down, cold, and will not suckle, you must take action  or you will lost it.  Your choices are few.  You will need a weak   kid or save-a-kid syringe.  They run about $5.00 for the tube and syringe, and well worth the money! 

Do not feed a kid that's too chilled to raise it's head, as this could send the animal into shock. First warm it up, and once it's warm, then tube it. Never use dirty tubes or syringes, and be sure to have extra tubes in case one wears out unexpectedly.   Feed through the tube slowly until you've gotten 25-40 cc's of warm colostrum into the stomach. 

It is Very important that a kid receives colostrum as it's first meal as it provides antibodies  that the animal needs, and it activates the proper balance of naturally occurring microorganisms in the stomach.  Assemble your supplies.  Measure your tube from nose to the chest floor & mark with black marker.  This is the maximum depth you need to insert the tube.  Hold the kid securely & dip the end of the tube in water to soften it.  Insert the tube from the center of the kid's mouth, over the tongue and down the throat until you reach the mark.  They should still be able to cry with the tube inserted.  Very important to get the tube in the right spot.  If you pour fluids into the kids lungs, it will die.  Test to make sure the tube is in the stomach & not the lungs - listen at the end of the tube to see if you hear breath sounds (you should not), or stick the other end of the tube in water to make sure it doesn't blow bubbles, which would indicate that you are in the lungs.
Time is an important factor.  You must get colostrum into the kids within 24 hours or you don't stand a very good chance of saving the kid.  After you are sure that the tube is in the right place, attach the syringe to the end of the tube.  The liquid should flow freely down the tube. If not, withdraw the tube about 2" and push it back in.  It may be up against the wall of the stomach or kinked.  If the liquid flows freely down the tube, slowly add 2-3 ounces of fluid into the syringe.  Let gravity push the liquid down the tube, hold the syringe up above the kids head.  Much easier done with two people.
After all the feed has flowed through the tube, add about 10 cc's of water to rinse the tube before removal, as milk or medication that aspirates as the tube is removed, can cause pneumonia, but a little water should be absorbed.  Be sure to cover the end of the tube as you are removing it.  This keeps the fluid from leaking as it is being pulled out.

Be sure to rinse all your supplies very well with hot water & Betadine.

Tube feeding instructions can be found in a  Premier catalog (800) 282-6631

Needles & Syringes:  For these miniature small ruminants I   never use a needle longer than 1/2 inch.  It's not necessary  to use a longer needle, even with the adult animals.  You can order these needles separately or by the box from many goat catalogs, as well as the syringes you would need.  I would recommend having plenty on hand at all times for your needs.  Never re-use a needle!  You may re-use the syringe, but only after rinsing it with sterile distilled water.

I would also recommend having different size syringes as well, for dosing recommendations.  You should keep 6 cc & 12 cc syringes on hand as well as the more common 3 cc syringes.

Kidding Kit Necessities:   Goat Serum Concentrate. 12 cc syringe  & 1/2 " needles for administering serum I.M. Frozen colostrum   is preferred, as colostrum replacer is not sufficient. Weak kid syringe.  Nutri-Drench or Power Punch to provide vitamins, trace minerals and amino acids for much needed energy. 

Probios gel  to provide the naturally occurring microorganisms necessary.  Long O.B. gloves & Lubricant.  Penicillin - 1 cc shot,  in case you need to use the O.B. gloves, and risk introducing bacteria into  the uterus.  Iodine for dipping navels.  You can    use a plastic film container for the iodine cup or purchase one.  O.B. leg snare for difficult delivery, or a pig puller, which I'm told are available through Nasco.  Betadine scrub to wash up the doe's rear before delivery. Have plenty of clean, dry, (warm) towels if possible on hand for helping the doe to clean off the  kids, especially in cold weather. You will want to have bottles  and nipples ready to use just in case you need them.  Heat lamp for cold weather kiddings help to keep those young kids warm.  Be sure to hang them so that they do the job, but are not too close.  I use small soft blankets in a low, round feeding pan,  under the heat lamp, so that the kids can snuggle together   under it's warmth. Be sure to remove any buckets full of water, and use a lower watering pan while young kids are in the area. You do not want any kids to drown.  You will want to use straw over your shavings during kidding,  as shavings are very  intrusive at  kidding time.  If possible, have  a friend help at kidding time,  just in case you need a hand.  You may need someone to hold  the doe while you manipulate and  pull kids or just to hold your hand while you anticipate/worry prior to delivery.

Powdered kid milk replacer: 

Be very careful to mix the appropriate amount with water for feeding, as an improper mix can cause diarrhea.  If you continue to have a problem with diarrhea and you've eliminated other causes look once again to the kid milk replacer.  You might want to try using whole cows milk, or a mix of the two.  You may want to cut back on the amount of milk you are feeding, and supplement with hay/alfalfa to compensate for the reduction of milk.   Keep a very close eye on the condition of your kids at all times while experimenting with feed levels and different brands of feed.

Also, there has been a recall on Manna Pro products Spring 2007.  Many young kids have become ill from use of the kid milk replacer.  If you are using this product and having a problem with the health of your kids, stop using it immediately.  If kid milk replacer is a grayish color & the smell is off, do not ever use it to feed your kids.  I have found DuMor to be a very good product for kid milk replacer.

Recipe for Rhododendron Poisoning:  It's Worked for others!

1/4 cup cooking oil, 1/2 cup strong, strong, cold tea (6-8 bags removed) "English tea", 1 teaspoon ground ginger, 1 teaspoon baking soda.  Mix all together and drench goat with the complete mixture.

Kick start for weak newborn:

Karo syrup in 2 pints of water, or give black coffee.  These should be followed up with colostrum which every newborn requires.

Recipe for Colostrum Replacement: 

3 cups whole milk, 1 beaten egg, 1 tsp cod liver oil, 1 Tbs sugar.

Colostrum  Trick : 

Freeze your colostrum in ice cube trays & put into a plastic freezer bag.  This way you can thaw a cube at a time for a kid that should need it, and keep from wasting a very valuable resource.

Excellent Goat Information to be found at Fiasco Farm & Kinne

Also Excellent Information to be found at Active Farming & Mauldin  Boer Goat site.

(606) 663-1919 ~ Call any time if you need assistance

Always remember that it's better to be safe than sorry. 
Call for HELP if you cannot handle a health matter with your animal. 
Waiting too long can mean the difference between life and death.